Diagnostic Study of Chikan in Lucknow

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  • Topic: Lucknow, Artisan, Embroidery
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CLUSTER DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME, INDIA

DIAGNOSTIC STUDY ARTISAN THE CHIKAN EMBROIDERY CLUSTER LUCKNOW, UTTAR PRADESH

BY

PANKAJ ARYA SHILP SADHANA (TEXTILE BLOCK PRINTERS ASSOCIATION)

DEVELOPED UNDER

THE CLUSTER DEVELOPMENT AGENT TRAINING PROGRAMME OF UNIDO CDP, NEW DELHI &

THE ENT REPRENEURSHIP DEVELOPMENT INSTITUTE OF INDIA (EDII), AHMEDABAD AND SPONSORED BY SIDBI

The views expressed in the Diagnostic Studies are those of the authors and should not be attributed to UNIDO or to the institutions they may represent.

LUCKNOW CHIKANKARI CLUSTER

CONTENTS
S.NO. 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 2 An Overview Of Embroidery Clusters In India History And Tradition Of Chikankari The Uniqueness Of Chikan-Craft The Process Of Chikankari 4 TITLE PAGE NO . 1

IMPORTANT FEATURES OF THE CLUSTER 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 Biggest Artisan Based Cluster Geographical Coverage Rural Women Based Cluster Providing Employment To Non-Artisans

3 4

KEY MILESTONES & PERFORMANCE OF THE CHIKAN EMBROIDERY CLUSTER AT LUCKNOW STRUCTURE OF THE CHIKAN EMBROIDERY CLUSTER 4.1 4.2 4.3 Structure Of The Enterprises In The Cluster Other Institutional Linkages Cluster Map

4 5

5 6 7 8

ANALYSIS OF BUSINESS OPERATIONS ASSESSMENT OF ORGANISATIONAL LINKAGES IN THE CLUSTER SWOT ANALYSIS VIII. VISION FOR THE CLUSTER 8.1 8.2 8.3 Vision Statement Strategic Goals Proposed Action Plan For 2002

11 12 14 15

LUCKNOW CHIKANKARI CLUSTER

1. INTRODUCTION
India is a land of craftsmen. The textiles of India have been well known in Europe since Greek and Roman times. From 1600 to 1800 AD, India was the biggest exporter amongst all of the textile exporting countries. Textiles are decorated by various techniques, e.g. embroidery, brocading, printing, painting and dyeing, but among all of these, the embroidery craft is ranked at the top.

1.1 AN OVERVIEW OF EMBROIDERY CLUSTERS IN INDIA
In India there are many popular embroidery clusters such as Chikankari of Lucknow, Katha of Bengal, Fulkari of Punjab, Kutchi Embroidery of Gujarat & Kashidakari of Kashmir. Each style of embroidery is different from the other and has its own beauty and significant value. The city of Lucknow has a prominent place in the history of India particularly for its art, historical monuments and rich cultural heritage. The rulers of Awadh, particularly the Mughals were very fond of art and cultural activities such as music, poetry, architecture and handicrafts. Besides being famous for its hot summers and a glorious past, Lucknow is also known the world over for its many fine Handicrafts. Some of the most popular names in this list are Chikankari, Hand Block Textile Printing, Zari Zardozi, Ivory or Bone Carving, Terracotta and many others that are practiced by various artisans of Lucknow. Chikankari is considered to be the most popular amongst these and is recognized worldwide.

1.2 HISTORY AND TRADITION OF CHIKANKARI
The art of Chikan embroidery in India is about 400 years old and it is believed that this is a Persian Craft, which came to India with Noorjahan, the queen of Jahangeer the Mughal Emperor.. At that time it was designed and practiced by her and other begams (wives) of Mughal Emperors. Chikankari flourished under the patronage of the rulers of Awadh. Later when the capital of Awadh shifted to Lucknow from Faizabad, in the year 1722, the knowledge of the craft came to Lucknow. It is informed that here the Mughals found the Hand Block Printing skills that made it easier for them to practice this embroidery, as earlier the tracing of design was very difficult. This availability of easy process of drawing of base design encouraged them to teach this fine embroidery-work to their Kaniz (servants), who in turn taught it to their other family members and gradually this embroidery become a part time earning source of many women of rural areas. The craft of Chikankari is quite distinctive and forms an integral part of life in Lucknow. The fine needlework adorned the...
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