Hnd Advanced Therapies

Apply and Maintain Nail enhancements

By Paige Sophia Sheffield

Contents Page
Page 1 - Health and Safety and Industry codes for nail services
Page 2 - Health and Safety and Industry codes for nail services
Page 3 - Health and Safety and Industry codes for nail services
Page 4 - Health and Safety and Industry codes for nail services
Page 5- Health and Safety and Industry codes for nail services
Page 5- Preparation for nail services
Page 6- Preparation for nail services
Page 7- Structures Of the nails and skin
Page 8- Structures Of the nails and skin
Page9- Structure of the nails and skin
Page 10- structure of the nail and skin
Page 11- structure of the nail and skin
Page 11- Different Nail Shapes
Page 12 Different Nail Shapes
Page 13 – Different nail shapes
Page 13 Disorders and diseases that restrict treatments
Page14- Disorders and diseases that restrict treatments
Page 15- Disorders and diseases that restrict treatments
Page 16 –Disorders and diseases that restrict treatments
Page 17 – Three types of nail enhancements
Page 18 – Three types of Nail enhancements
Page 19 – Environmental Condition for nail enchantments
Page 20- Chemical Process for Nail Enhancements
Page 21- Chemical process for Nail Enhancements
Page 21- Adapting nail enhancements for clients
Page 22- Adapting Nail enhancements for clients
Page 23-Advantages of Nail enhancements
Page 24 Advantages of nail enhancements

Health and Safety and Industry codes for nail services

Nail salons/bars are becoming a more common high streets due to the increase in popularity of acrylic nails. It is important that health and safety is enforced so that procedures on nail enhancements does not affect the health and safety for the nail technician and or client.

Age restrictions to nail enhancements * England wales and Ireland no nails treatments for clients under the age of 18 * Scotland no nail treatments for client under the age of 16

Hazards associated with Nail Enhancements on nails are the following: * Bacterial, viral and fungal infections

* Skin contact, inhalation and ingestion of harmful chemicals and nail dust

* Bad Ventilation In the salon

Procedures/Enforcements that can help prevent Health hazards * Treat the natural nail, cuticle and skin around the nail with care and make sure all tools used are sterilized and you also remove any bacteria that may be present on the nails.

* Ask for the chemical safety data sheets from your supplier so your colleges have a Good knowledge how to use chemicals correctly when Performing Nail Enhancements on clients. * Follow the COSHH

* Make sure your salon is well ventilated. General ventilation is best if you have ventilation from the front to the back of the salon this reduces the amount of chemicals present in the air.

* You can Reduce the amount of chemicals in the air by keeping the products closed

* Technicians and clients should wash and dry their hands before and after cosmetic treatment to reduce the risk of infection.

COSSH Regulations for nails services
According to the COSHH Regulation requirements to nail services, each employers have the legal duty to:

* Calculate the risks to workers from hazardous substances present or generated in the workplace.

* Control the exposure of employees and others to any hazardous substances present or generated in the workplace.

* Make certain that the control measures, including engineering and personal protective equipment, are properly maintained.

* Arrange for checks of the workplace exposures to hazardous substances and health surveillance for the workers.

* Ensure that workers are given information, training, and instructions regarding the possible effects of exposure to hazardous substances.

COSHH also requires employees to follow the working practices that are intended to ensure the low risk of exposure to chemicals ECT. The regulations also require employees to properly use all control measures, including personal protective equipment, and to report any defects to a supervisor or manager. The employee is also obligate to attend any health and safety training.

Equipment
Equipment that is in direct contact with the skin or natural nail such as files etc. should be either singly used and disposed of or properly cleaned and sterilized between treatments. Also Follow Manufacturers guide line for cleaning Equipment will reduce the risk of infection.

Electric nail drills
Electric nail drills should be afforded at all cost due them being linked with damage to clients' natural nails and Also Increasing the risk of infection to the client.
Waste bins
Foot pressed bins should be used and emptied each day. Acrylic contaminated materials should be sealed in a bag before disposal in the bin reducing the amount of chemicals that could be exposed to the air. Any cotton wool ECT that has been soaked in any chemicals should be disposed of in a sealed bag

Preparation for nail services
The Therapist
Before the clients arrives
Before the client arrives for the nail services there are a few procedures the therapist must follow. * Make your wash your hands correctly with anti-bacterial soap

* Making sure that your Hair is tied back, Away from the face (No Hair hanging down)

* Make sure you uniform has been washed

* Make sure under your nails are free from dirty ect

* Make sure you’re wearing the correct shoes

* Make sure All tool have been sterilized Correctly

* Make sure You have the correct products that will be required in the nail service

The work area
Before a nail services you should insure that you’re your work area is up to a high standard and follow the correct regulations before you perform a treatment on a client. All Equipment that may be used on the client during a nail service must be sterilized and then placed in fresh Barbicide Make sure that all work surface on your work area have been cleaned with anti-bacterial spray to clean any Bacteria, Infections that may be present. Make sure that all products need in the treatment are ready for when the client come in for the nail services. Make sure you have a bin near your work station and that you have the correct Ventilation for the treatment to prevent increase of chemicals in the air.

The client
When a client come in you should greet you client and show them to wear the treatment will be taking place. You should have their consultation card present (If they had a treatment before, If not get a blank one) before a treatment you must ask about medical conditions, Allergies and check If they have any contraindications.
After all the medical ECT stuff has been done you now can explain the procedure you will be performing and ask what sort of nails they would like E.g. plain manicure, Gels, Acrylic
The Preparation the therapist performs on the client
Nail preparation are the most important stages of all nail services. They are particularly essential when applying nail enhancements. A professional technician will prepare the nail and never forget or skip nail preparation in exchange for speed. Preparing the nail only takes five minutes, those five minutes will aid adhesion and most importantly ensure that you have not put your client at risk of obtaining a nail infection.

Structures Of the nails and skin

3 main layer of the skin
There are three main layers to the human skin each of them have their own different functions which make them unique.

Epidermis
The epidermis consists of keratinized stratified squamous epithelium. Four cell types are present: * Keratinocytes produce keratin, a protein that hardens and waterproofs the skin.

* Mature keratinocytes based at the skin surface are dead and filled entirely with keratin.

* Melanocytes produce melanin, a pigment that protects cells from ultraviolet radiation.

* Langerhans cells are phagocytic macrophages that interact with white blood cells during an immune response.

* Merkel cells occur deep in the epidermis at the epidermal-dermal boundary. They form Merkel discs, which in a association with nerve endings.

Epidermis Layers
There are several layers making up the epidermis. Which are found on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. There are 5 layers that make up the Epidermis * The stratum corneum- contains many layers of dead, anucleate keratinocytes completely filled with keratin. The outermost layers are constantly shed.

* The stratum lucidum- contains two to three layers of anucleate cells. This layer is found only in the palm of the hand and the sole of the foot.

* The stratum granulosum - two to four layers of cells held together by desmosomes. These cells contain keratohyaline granules, which contribute to the formation of keratin in the upper layers of the epidermis.

* The stratum spinosum- contains eight to ten layers of cells connected by desmosomes. These cells are moderately active in mitosis.

* Stratum germinativum- contains a single layer of columnar cells actively dividing by mitosis to produce cells that migrate into the upper epidermal layers and to the surface of the skin.

Dermis The dermis, consists of different connective tissues. As connective tissue, it contains fibroblasts and macrophages within a gelatinous matrix containing collagen, elastic, and reticular fibers. The structure provides strength, extensibility and elasticity. It is in the dermis you can find capillaries and many nerve endings.

The dermis consists of two layers:

* The papillary layer- A thin outer layer of areolar connective tissue with fingerlike projections called dermal papillae that protrude into the epidermis. In the hands and feet.

* The reticular layer -A thick layer of dense irregular connective tissue. It lies deep to the papillary layer and makes up most of the dermis.

Subcutaneous layer
The Subcutaneous layer is between the dermis and underlying tissues and organs. It mostly adipose tissue and is the storage site of most body fat. It serves to fasten the skin to the underlying surface, provides thermal insulation, and absorbs shocks from impacts to the skin.
The Structure of the Nail

Free Edge * The free edge is the end of the nail plate that is usually shaped during nail services. This part of the nail is dead.

The Nail Grooves * The nail grooves are the grooves on the skin at the sides of the free edge

The Nail Plate * The nail plate is the visible portion of the nail that sits on top of the nail bed. It is made by Keratinization which is the change of living cells to hard, dead cells. It consist of the following things. Carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen.

The Nail Walls * The nail wall is are the folds of skin where the nail is still attached.

The Nail Bed * The nail bed is part of the finger which is underneath the nail plate.

The Lunular * This is the moon shaped point where the matrix and nail bed meet.

The Cuticle * This is the overlapping skin surrounding the nail. Its job is to protect the matrix from invading bacteria and physical damage.

The Matrix * This is where the nail is made. It is the only living part of the nail, and contains nerves and blood vessels so that cell reproduction can occur.

The different types of natural nail shapes
Round nails

* Round nails have Strong straight walls round Tip with sharp or light rounded corners. The round Tip has the same arch as your natural nail rim. Rounded nails are the most conservative of all shapes and it Ideal for men and women
Oval nails

* Oval nails have Walls and tip all filed into an oval/egg shape. This shape looks, long or short, very feminine and very flattering. But because the sides are filed, the nails are weak and will tend to break easily.

Square nails

* Square nails are the classic French manicure shape the side walls are strong, corners are sharp, or slight rounded.

Squoval

* Squoval Nails are square nails with oval filed tips and corners. Squoval nails are as strong as square nails.

Disorders and Diseases that Restrict/Prevent a treatment

Infectious Diseases:

* Impetigo, warts, ECT are viral infections and can be highly contagious. Manicure and artificial nail treatments should be avoided until the infection has cleared up to avoid cross-infection.

Scabies:

* A skin infection caused by tiny mites. Their burrows appear as darkened, wavy lines on the skin. Scabies usually affects hands and feet, wrists and inner arm. Never treat a client with scabies, it is a highly infectious

Ringworm

* A fungal infection giving a ring and wormlike appearance. It is highly contagious when touching an infected person. It is common in children. Do not carry out any nail treatments when ringworm is present on a client.

Cuts/Abrasions

* Cuts and abrasions can be caused by various accidents with knives, sharp edges and of course falling over. When performing a manicure or nail extensions treatment, small cuts can be covered and treatment can carry on. Large cuts should be allowed to heal before any nail treatment can take place for the comfort of the client and to prevent cross-infection.

Swelling

* Swelling can be caused by accidents and infections. If the client has an infection, the nail technician can refer the client to their G.P. If the swelling is caused by an accident, tell the client that the swelling must heal before a nail treatment can take place for their comfort

Erythema

* Can be caused by heat, cold, infection, and a reaction to chemicals. Allergic reactions and dermatitis can cause erythema. Redness should only prevent or restrict a nail treatment if the client is uncomfortable or if the redness is caused by infection or an allergic reaction to manicure or nail extensions.

Discolored Nails

* Usually the result of wearing nail polish without a base coat. Also caused by hair dyes. Smokers can also suffer from discolored nails.

The three Different type of Nail Enhancement available
There are three main types of nail enhancements available in salons. Each have the own unique Quality’s.

Acrylic nails

Acrylic nails, also known as fake nails, were first invented in the 1970s. The original versions were nothing more than pieces of plastic shaped like fingernails. They didn't look natural and provided no benefit to the natural nails. Today's acrylic nails are much stronger, look realistic and provide great benefits to the client. The term acrylic is methacrylate, a combination of a monomer liquid with a polymer powder. This chemical is what gives the nails its strength and durability. The chemical units of the monomer liquid react when mixed with the chemicals in the polymer powder to form long fibers that dry and harden to resemble a natural finger nails
Acrylic nail extensions varies greatly from person to person and is dependent upon numerous factors. An individual who carries out manual labor or is required to use their hands constantly in their job will probably find that their nails do not last as long as someone who office based

Gel nails

Gel nails are a type of artificial nails that most closely resembles the natural nail. Gel nails are similar to acrylic nails. Gel nails are unlike the standard acrylic nails, Due to them containing short chain monomers which is also known as oligomers. This is what makes the nails more flexible. Gel nails hardened by placing your fingers under a ultra-violet light.

Silk, Fibrous nails

Very natural and extremely fibrous look beautiful artificial nails. The material for these nails serve as linen, silk, paper and glass. This is the most fragile from all the known artificial nails.

The environmental Conditions For nail enhancements

Nail salons where hazardous chemicals are used can cause problems. The chemical vapors and dusts of such substances can breathed in by workers and customers, and can cause a variety of short term and long-term diseases. There are a few way you can do to improve the conditions in your salon.

Ventilation Systems * Ventilation systems for offices, schools and other non-industrial settings are usually not adapted for keeping toxic substances at a safe level.
Local exhaust ventilation is more effective because it removes chemicals at their source before they reach the air it protects both nail technicians and customers, both kinds of ventilation should be installed. Nevertheless, general ventilation, if properly installed, can by itself significantly reduce chemical exposures and improve the environment of the salon.

Ventilated Tables

* A ventilated table is where a fan that pulls the chemical vapors into a duct and prevents them from entering the room it prevents toxic chemicals from reaching the breathing zone of both nail technicians and customers

Chemical Processes of Different Nail enhancements

Acrylic Nails
Liquid and Powder

• LIQUID - is a complex mixture of monomers, cross-linkers, stabilizers, catalysts and other additives.
• POWDER - is a mixture of polymers and copolymers that contain the initiator, colorants and other additives.
Accelerators, Initiators, Catalysts and Energy are needed by all artificial nail enhancement products. If one is missing chemical reactions will happen much more slowly or not at all.
Polymer powders
Polymer powder particles act as carriers for other ingredients. Several of the ingredients needed to make nail enhancements are embedded inside each powder
The polymer also carries a heat sensitive catalyst. When liquid and powder are combined, they create their own heat which is the energy needed to start the reaction.
Catalyst
The catalyst is called benzoyl peroxide. The Heat from the accelerator which the monomer provides is enough energy to break the Benzoyl peroxide molecule in half. This occurs when the Benzoyl peroxide is mixed with the proper accelerator which is found in the liquid. When the initiator breaks in half, it gives birth to a free radical. Free radicals start producing a chemical reaction. Once it passes energy to the monomer, the free radical dies and is eliminated. Each half when each half has enough energy to excite a monomer. The energized monomer attaches to another monomer’s tail and passes the energy onto it so it can do the same; and so the molecular chain reaction begins. This cycle repeats itself billions of times, reaching very long polymer chains.

Gel nails
Gels are specifically formulated with unique combination of several types of oligomers which create the structure of the gel system. Other ingredients include the photoinitator, which jump starts the polymerization process, and adhesion which help the gel adhere to the natural nail.
How a gel cures
That ingredient that help gels cure is the photoinitiator. The photoinitiator gets its name from the gel chemistry term initiator. The initiator is triggered by the activator which is Ultra Violet Light Energy.
Photoinitiator
Photoinitiator (PIs) are light sensitive and turn into free radicals to start the polymerization process. PIs absorb UV light and convert it into the energy needed to drive the polymerization process. The combination and type of PIs used in a system greatly dictates the properties of the gel. In general, the more PIs there are in a formula, the faster the cure. This can have its own downside. High amounts of PIs, which will heat up on the clients’ nails. This is especially uncomfortable for the clients whose nails have been damaged by excessive filing, drilling or harsh abrasives.

Adapting your Nail enhancement treatment to adapt to your client’s needs.

* Weak or damaged nails surrounding cuticle – if the client has inflamed cuticles, carrying out the treatment could cause infection or an allergic reaction to occur. It would be best to perform a nourishing manicure first and then ask the client to return once the cuticle condition has improved. * Cost involved - the client must be made aware of the cost of the initial set of nail enhancements plus the cost to maintain the nails. Some people are not aware that they need to return to maintain the nails. * Natural nail shapes - clients may have a variety of different nail shapes which you will need to take into consideration when applying the tips and overlays. You will need to adapt your techniques in order to produce an attractive looking artificial nail structure. * Medical conditions – certain medical conditions such as diabetes have symptoms that include skin that heals very poorly. Care would have to be taken when choosing a nail system and carrying out the treatment to ensure that the client’s skin is not cut with the file in any way. * Medication – certain drugs alter the nail surface making the nail plate resistant to the adhesion of artificial nail products. Resulting in unusual reactions occurring. * Poor circulation – if a client suffers from poor circulation in their hands, making them very cold, it can prevent the products from adhering properly resulting in lifting.

Adapting to the clients nails

* Fan shape nails -When dealing with a fan shaped nail cut back the free edge of the natural nail and file the protruding edges of the fan to produce parallel side walls.

* Claw shape nail -When applying a nail extension to a claw shaped nail the free edge should be cut back to leave a small portion. A sculpting system would be more effective, aim to correct the angle of the upper arch with the sculpting Product.

* Spoon shape nail-When applying a nail extension to a spoon shaped nail the free edge should be cut back as far as possible. When applying a tip and overlay system the center of the nail should be built up with resin to produce a curve that is equal to that of the tip. Select a flat nail tip and apply at a downwards angle.

* Bitten nails -When dealing with a badly bitten nail you should firstly recommend regular manicures or apply an overlay system to provide protection for the natural nail, allowing it to grow. A tip and overlay system is not recommended at this point as they cannot easily be applied as there is not enough nail plate to attach the nail tip.

Nail enchancement | Advantages | Disadvantages | Acrylic Nails | * Acrylic nails are very strong and durable and can last a long time. * You can soak off acrylic nails at home without the help of a professional. * Generally cheaper than gel nail application. * Can be fixed without the help of a nail technician. * Great for adding length to short nails. | * Can result in damage to the nail bed, as the natural nail is unable to breathe beneath the acrylic. When acrylics are removed the nail beneath is often very weak and brittle. * Can sometimes look more artificial than gel nails. * The application of acrylic nails does involve chemicals and fumes so pregnant women are advised to avoid this treatment. * Upkeep and longevity | Gel nails | * Gel does not cause damage to the natural nail and can be used to strengthen, protect and promote growth in the natural nail. * Gel is odorless unlike some acrylic or liquid powder nail systems. Gel is also more flexible. * Gel is considered to be a safer and more environmentally friendly option to acrylics. | * Some individuals may find that their gel nails are less durable than acrylics and therefore do not last as long. * Most gel nail variations must be cured using a UV light meaning that they are difficult to fix at home. * -Some gel nails will need to be filed off as opposed to being soaked off, which can be time consuming | Fiber or Silk nails | * Most natural on nails * Wraps are most commonly used to strengthen tips. * Silk is the most natural-looking wrap * provides a lot of flexibility | * often too delicate for those with active lifestyles * Not recommended for people wanting a lasting result, Would recommend having acrylic nails or gel nails | | | | | | |

The Advantage and disadvantage of nail Enhancements