Organic Chemistry (Soap Making)

Topics: Essential oil, Soap, Sodium hydroxide Pages: 8 (1795 words) Published: March 31, 2014
Things you’ll NEED

80g of Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH or Lye)
8 oz. Distilled Water
30g Olive Oil

Heating pan
Stainless Steel
Measuring cup

Things you’ll need for safety:
Safety Goggles
Rubber gloves

Cold Process Soap Making (Summary)

Step-by-step instructions:
Gather all your ingredients
Wear safety goggles, mask, rubber gloves
Prepare your molder
Measure Sodium Hydroxide and Water
Mix lye to distilled water
Measure Oils
Heat the oils then remove it from the stove
Mix the Lye with the heated oil
Mix Coloring
Apply generous amount of fragrance,
Now, pour into molder.
Leave it in a closed area to Dry.

Safety TIPS:
DO NOT use your perfume as your fragrance.
DO NOT inhale the fumes when mixing lye to water.
AVOID skin and eye contact.
DO NOT leave lye in reach of children.
WEAR safety attire all the time.

Tools that are used for soap-making must ONLY be used for soap-making. Be cautious when using wooden implements.
Reduce the risk of the chemical splashing up and out.

Teach Soap is the premier site for soap making tutorials, soap recipes, soap making tips and everything you’d want to know about making soap and other handcrafted products including lip balms, lotions, bath fizzies and much more.

From beginners to seasoned soap makers, Teach Soap has something for everyone! We cover everything from soap making recipes for beginners, to more complex cold process soap making recipes and techniques.

CPOP = Cold Process Oven Process

Basically, CPOP is forcing a hot, extended gel phase with the help of an oven. Gel phase is temperature phase. After soap is in the mold, the process of saponification can cause the soap to heat up. Gel phase is beneficial to soap because it can intensify colors in the soap.

Professor Kevin M. Dunn, author of Caveman Chemistry and Scientific Soapmaking, mentions that heat and gel phases also speeds along the saponification process. However, not going through gel phase doesn’t detract from soap in any way. In fact, some soapers prefer the matte look of soap that has NOT gelled, or gone through gel phase, and take special steps to prevent gel phase. The warmest part is in the center of the soap (the most insulated section), which is where gel phase starts.

Insulating soap after molding will also promote gel phase, although CPOP will pretty much guarantee a full gel (as opposed to a partial gel, which can appear as a dark ring in the center of your soap). Cooling the soap as quickly as possible will deter gel phase from happening, which is why some soapers put their soap into the fridge or freezer directly after molding. To gel or not to gel is a matter of personal preference, but CPOP is all about the gel phase, baby!


7.5 oz Coconut Oil

7.5 oz Olive Oil

7.5 oz Palm Oil

2.5 oz Sweet Almond Oil

3.4 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)

8.25 oz Distilled Water

1.5 oz Fresh Mango Fragrance Oil

1/2 teaspoon Electric Bubbble Gum Pigment

1 teaspoon Hydrated Green Chrome Oxide

1 teaspoon Titanium Dioxide

2.5 oz Sunflower Oil (or any liquid oil)

1/2 teaspoon Merlot Mica

2 Pound Wood Loaf Mold

MOLD PREP: Line the 2 Pound Wood Loaf Mold with Freezer Paper, shiny side up.

COLOR PREP: Disperse the pigments as follows: 1/2 teaspoon Electric Bubble Gum in 1/2 Tablespoon liquid oil, and 1 teaspoon Hydrated Chrome Green Oxide and 1 teaspoon Titanium Dioxide in 1 Tablespoon of liquid oil each. Use a mini mixer to make quick work of the dispersing, but be sure to saturate the powdered pigments in the oil with the tip of the mixer before turning it on (or you’ll wind up with a bit of a mess!).

OVEN PREP: Adjust the racks in the oven so that there is one rack on the lowest notch, and one rack toward the center. Be sure that the central rack...
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