How to Make a Bread Box from Timber
Diary Recount
- Received design brief and folio assignment for breadbox.
- Received long piece of timber for 12 slats and cut each to 350mm long.
- Jackplaned dozen slats to10mm thick and chamfered each to 3mm.
- Marked rebate joints on top and cut with electric router and jig.
- Marked curve on both sides of breadbox with pencil and template.
- Nailed sides together with 40mm bullet-head nails and Warrington hammer followed line with jigsaw
- Sanded sides evenly with disc sander. Finished off with garnet paper and a sanding block.
- Removed nails with pincers and steel rule.
- Issued with a piece of timber for front rail and cut to 350mm, sanding each end square with disc sander.
- Cut a stopped rebate joint on both inside edges of the 2 sides using an electric router and a 25mm bevel-edged chisel. Allowing for the front rail to slot into inside.
- Cut grooves in sides for the roller lid to run in using the electric router with a ball bearing race.
- Cut down top shorter so there is no overhang with radial arm saw. Marked positions for nails with steel rule and pencil.
- Nailed top and sides together using a warrington hammer, PVA glue, 25x1.25 mm nails and a nail punch.
- Issued with a precut base and nailed it to the main frame with warrington hammer, PVA glue and nail punch.
- Puttied over nails using pinewood putty and a putty knife. Sanded job with 120 grit garnet paper and sanding block.
- Cut slats to fit into grooves with tenon saw.
- Lined up all slats evenly using a try square, pencil, vice and a scrap piece of wood.
- Applied Shelley’s Qwik-Grip adhesive to the back of all slats and onto a sheet of fabric using a scrap piece of wood to spread it evenly.
- Added another sheet of fabric to strengthen.
- Put slats into job and nailed pre-cut back on using nails and a Warrington hammer.
- Gave job a final sand and then vanished with three coats of water-based varnish
- The breadbox is now ready for
- Received design brief and folio assignment for breadbox.
- Received long piece of timber for 12 slats and cut each to 350mm long.
- Jackplaned dozen slats to10mm thick and chamfered each to 3mm.
- Marked rebate joints on top and cut with electric router and jig.
- Marked curve on both sides of breadbox with pencil and template.
- Nailed sides together with 40mm bullet-head nails and Warrington hammer followed line with jigsaw
- Sanded sides evenly with disc sander. Finished off with garnet paper and a sanding block.
- Removed nails with pincers and steel rule.
- Issued with a piece of timber for front rail and cut to 350mm, sanding each end square with disc sander.
- Cut a stopped rebate joint on both inside edges of the 2 sides using an electric router and a 25mm bevel-edged chisel. Allowing for the front rail to slot into inside.
- Cut grooves in sides for the roller lid to run in using the electric router with a ball bearing race.
- Cut down top shorter so there is no overhang with radial arm saw. Marked positions for nails with steel rule and pencil.
- Nailed top and sides together using a warrington hammer, PVA glue, 25x1.25 mm nails and a nail punch.
- Issued with a precut base and nailed it to the main frame with warrington hammer, PVA glue and nail punch.
- Puttied over nails using pinewood putty and a putty knife. Sanded job with 120 grit garnet paper and sanding block.
- Cut slats to fit into grooves with tenon saw.
- Lined up all slats evenly using a try square, pencil, vice and a scrap piece of wood.
- Applied Shelley’s Qwik-Grip adhesive to the back of all slats and onto a sheet of fabric using a scrap piece of wood to spread it evenly.
- Added another sheet of fabric to strengthen.
- Put slats into job and nailed pre-cut back on using nails and a Warrington hammer.
- Gave job a final sand and then vanished with three coats of water-based varnish
- The breadbox is now ready for