How to Build a Cape Cod Chair

Topics: Metric system, Imperial units, Grid plan Pages: 7 (2223 words) Published: May 26, 2013
How to build a Cape Cod Chair

This is the 4th version of this particular project.
This updated version (take 4) of our previous plans highlights the value of user feedback and contributions. Many of the changes and improvements implemented in this version are as a direct result of user input. One of the features of this version is the three options given on how to shape the individual pieces, and one of these options was contributed by a user. This style of chair is pretty much universal, and the chair goes by various names depending on the region. 'Adirondack' chair, 'Cape Cod' chair, and the 'Muskoka' chair appear to be most common, but there are more. |

Our chair is bigger than most similar designs - more substantial and a bit more laidback (by that we mean the angle of the back recline). Furniture these days tends to be a bit more flimsy than that of yesteryear. This chair leans more towards the 'old' rather than the 'new'. It's a chair you can sit comfortably in, kick back and relax. Measurements

The dimensions given in this project are in both imperial (inches) and metric (mm). Throughout the script, the imperial measurements are given first, followed by the metric measurements in brackets ( ). For example: 2" x 4" (100mm x 50mm).

Note that most countries that use the imperial system generally call the smaller numeral first, for example: 2" x 4" (2 inches by 4 inches). Most countries that use the metric system generally call the bigger numeral first, for example: 100mm x 50mm (100 millimetres by 50 millimetres). For rounding-off purposes, the imperial sizes in this project are not an exact match to the corresponding metric sizes. In fact, a structure built using the imperial measurements (inches) will be approximately 1.6% larger than the same structure using the metric (mm) measurements - not really worth worrying about. The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are more suited to Australasia and other countries. The size (width and thickness) of the wood used in this project is the 'actual' (true) size. That is, the size of the wood after it has been dressed (surfaced, planed and/or seasoned). For example: 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" is ex 2" x 6", and the metric equivalent 140mm x 45mm is ex 150mm x 50mm. Structure

All the wood used for this project is 3/4" (19mm) thick, with the exception of the arms which are 1 1/2" (45mm) thick. That is to give a bit of meat to the arms and something substantial to screw the upper back support to. What you will need

For the seat sides, legs, back slats, upper back support, and the seat slats you will need... 38ft (11.5m) of 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) wood, allowing for a little bit of wastage. For the front and rear spacers, lower back support, and arm braces you will need... 8ft (2.4m) of 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm) wood, allowing for a little bit of wastage. For the arms you will need...

64" (1600mm) of 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 45mm) wood.
Note: When cutting, cut the longer pieces first to minimize wastage. You will also need...
- Around 90 exterior-type 1 1/2" (38mm) long screws.
- Four 3/8" x 2" (10mm x 50mm) galvanized carriage bolts and washers. - Exterior-type glue
The cutting list
[a]| seat sides| 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm)| 39" (975mm)| 2| [b]| rear spacer| 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm)| 23 1/4" (580mm)| 1| [c]| legs| 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm)| 22 3/4" (570mm)| 2| [d]| lower back support| 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm)| 24 3/4" (620mm)| 1| [e]| back slats| 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm)| 38" (950mm)| 4| [f]| arm braces| 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm)| 7" (175mm)| 2| [g]| seat slats| 3/4" x 1 3/8" (35mm x 20mm)

Rip (cut lengthways) from 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) stock| 24 3/4" (620mm)| 16| [h]| arms| 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 45mm)| 32" (800mm)| 2| [i]| upper back support | 3/4" x...
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