ON THE GARMENTS
Dokuz Eylul University Engineering Fac. Textile Eng. Department Bornova-Izmir/TURKEY
The single jersey knitted structures, used widely in knitted garments, cause some problems, because of their unbalanced structures. The most important problem of the single jersey structure is fabric spirality, which affects all the fabric and creates big problems at the clothing step. It affects the garment as the displacements of the side seams and this causes an important quality problem. This problem is prevented during the finishing and dyeing processes by different methods, however these preventions are temporary and after washing processes, on the clothes the displacement of side seam is occurred.
In this study previous studies are examined. Different angles of spirality were measured at different tightness factors on the fabrics, knitted by using open-end and ring yarns. After that, for investigating the effects of the spirality on the garments, t-shirts are produced and after washing processes, the displacements of side seams are measured.
Ba\u015fer and \u00c7eken  produced knitted fabrics on hand knitting machines to research the effects of yarn properties on fabric spirality by using acrylic and cotton yarns with two different yarn counts and four different twist factors at different tightness factors. As a result the most important factor that affects the fabric spirality on acrylic and cotton knitted fabrics is observed as twist liveliness. It is observed that the angle of spirality is decreasing on knitted fabrics, when yarns are fixed with vapor.
At the same time by using two-ply yarns, the spirality is prevented, because the twist direction of the two-ply yarn is opposite to the twist of one-ply yarn. On the other hand using fine yarns and slack fabrics, it is observed that on knitted fabrics the angle of spirality is very high.