Coastal Morphology | Colin Campbell
Table of Content 1. Aim of study .
2. Location of study
3. Method of data collection
4. Presentation, Analysis and Discussion of data
5. Observation of findings
Aim of Study 1. To study the effects of constructive and destructive wave processes on coastal landforms development 2. To determine the influence of the local rock and structure on the development of coastal landforms.
Location of Study The data was collected at Robins Bay St. Mary, Jamaica.
Method of Data Collection The Data Was Collected on March 30th 2011 at Robins Bay St. Mary. Tables, along with labeled diagrams, were used to present the data.
Presentation, Analysis and Discussion of Data Sea Well Landforms: y Cave y Notch y Headland
Time(s) 60 60 60
Wave Data Table 1 Number of waves 15 16 14
Period(s) 2 1 1
Wave Frequency 15 12 13
Waves Table 2 Wave Height(ft.) 1.2 1.8 2.1
Wave Length(ft.) 5.2 5.8 6.7
Wave Action The power of waves is one of the most significant forces of coastal change. Waves are created by wind blowing over the surface of the sea. As the wind blows over the sea, friction is created - producing a swell in the water. The energy of the wind causes water particles to rotate inside the swell and this moves the wave forward. The size and energy of a wave is influenced by: y y y how long the wind has been blowing the strength of the wind how far the wave has travelled (the fetch)
Waves can be destructive or constructive. When a wave breaks, water is washed up the beach - this is called the swash. Then the water runs back down the beach - this is called the backwash. With a constructive wave, the swash is stronger than the backwash. With a destructive wave, the backwash is stronger than the swash.
Figure 1 showing Waves Action.
Destructive Waves Destructive Waves is a plunging wave, with a short wavelength, a high frequency (13- 15 per minute) a high crest. Backwash greatly exceeds swash. Destructive waves comb beach material seawards.
Figure 2 showing Destructive waves. This wave was present at all locations.
Constructive Waves A low frequency (6-8 per minute) spilling wave, with a long wavelength and a low crest, running gently up the beach. Swash greatly exceeding the backwash (which is reduced by percolation), leading to deposition.
Figure 3 showing Constructive waves. This wave was present at Don Christopher Cove and Peytons Cove.
Caves occur when waves force their way into cracks in the cliff face. The water contains sand and other materials that grind away at the rock until the cracks become a cave. Hydraulic action is the predominant process.
Figure 4 showing Cave. This landform was present at Sea Well and Peytons Cove and Point.
Notch A V-shaped cut or hole in the bottom or edge of a surface, normally a cliff. This is formed after repeated beating of waves, destructive, on the side of a cliff.
Figure 5 showing a notch. This landform was present at Sea well only.
Headlands are formed when the sea attacks a section of coast with alternating bands of hard and soft rock. The bands of soft rock, such as sand and clay, erode more quickly than those of more resistant rock, such as chalk. This leaves a section of land jutting out into the sea called a headland.
Figure 6 showing Headland. This landform was present at Sea Well, Don Christopher Point and Blowing Point.
Robins Bay Landforms: y Stacks
Time(s) 60 60 60
Wave Data Number of Waves 12 15 13
Period(s) 1 2 1
Wave Frequency 11 13 14
Waves Wave Height(ft.) 1.2 2.1 1.9
Wave Length(ft.) 10 9.3 8
Stack A stack is a geological landform consisting of a steep and often vertical column or columns of rock in the sea near a coast,...
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