Bodyboarding: A Short Story

Growing up on an island surrounded by water, it was hard to resist the temptations of the ocean. I was vicariously watching the older crew who were pretty gregarious bodyboarders , but as me and my friends grew older we got dexterous with bodyboarding. Our little crew was always trying to one up each other, we were pretty ostentatious when it came to that kind of stuff. We would always go out on the optimal days for bodyboarding, but some days we would just go out to facetious time. We would also go on days that were detrimental to our safety, but we didn't care, we would just go and not think about what we were doing. A few winters ago there was a swell that came in and one of the biggest swells that I had ever seen, I was surfing