A Global History
the edible series
Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith is a revolutionary new series of books dedicated to food and drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the global history and culture of one type of food or beverage.
Pancake Ken Albala Pizza Carol Helstosky Hamburger Andrew F. Smith Spices Fred Czarra Pie Janet Clarkson
Bread William Rubel Cake Nicola Humble Caviar Nichola Fletcher Dates Nawal Nasrallah Cheese Andrew Dalby Chocolate Sarah Moss Cocktails Joseph M. Carlin Coffee Jonathan Morris Curry Colleen Taylor Sen Fish and Chips Panikos Panayi Ice Cream Laura Weiss Lobster Elisabeth Townsend Milk Hannah Velten Pasta Kantha Shelke Soup Janet Clarkson Tea Helen Saberi Tomato Deborah A. Duchon Vodka Patricia Herlihy Whiskey Kevin R. Rosar Wine Marc Millon
A Global History Bruce Kraig
Published by Reaktion Books Ltd Great Sutton Street London , www.reaktionbooks.co.uk
First published Copyright © Bruce Kraig All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers. Printed and bound in China by C&C Offset Printing Co., Ltd British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Kraig, Bruce Hot dog : a global history. – (Edible) . Frankfurters – History . Sausages – History . Food habits – United States – History . Convenience foods – United States – History I. Title . -:
Preface Introduction: What is a Hot Dog? 1 Hot Dog History 2 How Hot Dogs are Made 3 How Hot Dogs are Sold 4 Hot Dog Culture 5 Hot Dogs Around the World The Hot Dog Factory Recipes References Select Bibliography Websites and Associations Acknowledgements Photo Acknowledgements Index
I was once walking along West nd Street, near the New York Public Library, when I passed a pair of voluminous people, a man and a woman, standing in front of a small fast-food emporium. Both were holding hot dogs in their hands – all four of them. I heard one of them say, in a heartfelt voice, ‘I love hot dogs!’ Turning, I saw this happy pair had what can only be described as beatiﬁc looks in their eyes and rapturous smiles on their mustard-smeared lips. In one verbal and physical gesture, these fans had expressed the whole hot dog experience. Similar expressions can be found at hot dog stands throughout the world. What makes this so is not just the special taste qualities of the sausage and accoutrements, but the culture that surrounds them. Hot dogs have been embedded in American culture through folklore and commerce since the end of the nineteenth century. The term ‘hot dog’ was applied to common, industrially made sausages that became popular in an era of considerable change in American society. Heavy immigration from Europe, the rise of truly large urban centres, new mass entertainments, enhanced information technologies all combined to create a much-desired new national identity, the
legendary ‘American melting pot’. The hot dog became the symbol of that identity, and was often tied to American national sport at the time. It is no accident that, in , a car manufacturer branded itself with the memorable jingle: ‘Hot dogs, baseball, apple pie and Chevrolet.’ When Americans eat hot dogs in public places they are celebrating their common identity, making the little sausages all the better-tasting.
Introduction: What is a Hot Dog?
A hot dog belongs to the ancient family of encased foods. But unlike stuffed vegetables such as peppers or aubergines, dolmas, enchiladas or the Mexican mixiotes, for example, the hot dog is a product encased in animal gut, or an...