Apparel Value Chain
sectoral studies series
T H E G L O B A L A P PA R E L VA L U E C H A I N :
What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries
UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION economy environment employment
sectoral studies series
THE GLOBAL APPAREL VALUE CHAIN:
What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries
Gary Gereffi Department of Sociology, Duke University Durham, USA and Olga Memedovic UNIDO, Strategic Research and Economics Branch
UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION Vienna, 2003
This paper has not been formally edited. The views expressed therein, the designations employed as well as the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expressions of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the United Nations Industrial Development Organization concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. Designations such as “industrialized”, “developed” and “developing” countries are intended for statistical convenience and do not necessarily express a judgement about the stage reached by a particular country or area in the development process. Mention of firm names or commercial products does not imply endorsement by UNIDO. Material in this paper may be freely quoted but acknowledgement is requested, together with a copy of the publication containing the quotation or reprint.
ii
Acknowledgement
This publication has been prepared by Gary Gereffi, Department of Sociology, Duke University, and Olga Memedovic, UNIDO staff member from the Strategic Research and Economics Branch. Frédéric Richard, Director of the Strategic Research and Economics Branch, provided overall guidance. UNIDO intern Arjan Stavast provided assistance. The authors are grateful to Mr. John-Peter Moll, UNIDO expert on textile and clothing, for providing his comments during the preparation of this paper. Penelope
T H E G L O B A L A P PA R E L VA L U E C H A I N :
What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries
UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION economy environment employment
sectoral studies series
THE GLOBAL APPAREL VALUE CHAIN:
What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries
Gary Gereffi Department of Sociology, Duke University Durham, USA and Olga Memedovic UNIDO, Strategic Research and Economics Branch
UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION Vienna, 2003
This paper has not been formally edited. The views expressed therein, the designations employed as well as the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expressions of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the United Nations Industrial Development Organization concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. Designations such as “industrialized”, “developed” and “developing” countries are intended for statistical convenience and do not necessarily express a judgement about the stage reached by a particular country or area in the development process. Mention of firm names or commercial products does not imply endorsement by UNIDO. Material in this paper may be freely quoted but acknowledgement is requested, together with a copy of the publication containing the quotation or reprint.
ii
Acknowledgement
This publication has been prepared by Gary Gereffi, Department of Sociology, Duke University, and Olga Memedovic, UNIDO staff member from the Strategic Research and Economics Branch. Frédéric Richard, Director of the Strategic Research and Economics Branch, provided overall guidance. UNIDO intern Arjan Stavast provided assistance. The authors are grateful to Mr. John-Peter Moll, UNIDO expert on textile and clothing, for providing his comments during the preparation of this paper. Penelope
References: AAMA (American Apparel Manufacturers Association), Manufacturing Strategies (Arlington, VA, AAMA, 1984). Apparel Abend, Jules, “Battle of the brands”, Bobbin 42, 2 (October 2000), pp