Clothing for the upper body is worn in three layers; the undershirt is worn first, with a doublet over it and a jerkin or gown over that. Cloaks and overcoats may be added in cold weather. Sometimes a waistcoat is worn between the shirt and doublet.
Doublets
The doublet must be close fitting, with a high, narrow waist and internal quilting. Necklines are low and square to oval. The undershirt should be gathered into a band just above the neckline of the doublet. Those old doublets with the deep V-shaped slits to the waist are just no longer fashionable!
Sleeves should be close fitting with tight, buttoned cuffs. For maximum effect they should be puffed out at the shoulder and sometimes at the elbow as well. Alternatively, you should consider going for the 'slashed' look, with narrow cuts along the sleeve so that the shirt or waistcoat can be pulled out in brightly coloured puffs? Of course, another idea is to have a bright lining sewn inside the sleeve, and have that puffed out through the slashes instead.
Another good idea is to wear two sleeves (in contrasting colours, naturally). You can then leave the main sleeve hanging loose from the elbow, thus revealing the undersleeve beneath.
A vexed question in modern fashion concerns whether the ties attaching the doublet to the hose should be on the outside, or concealed on the inside. Opinion differs greatly on this, but personally I feel that decoratively tied bows and half-bows should be employed on the outside, as this looks far more decorative than the converse. You can even go as far as to have the ties tipped with shiny metal tags.
Jerkins
Again, this must be close fitting with a high waist. The skirts should be longer than those on the doublet. It should be lined, not padded.
Unlike doublets, it is quite acceptable for jerkins to be slit in a wide V to the waist, and they should not be laced across. The jerkin should form a round or square collar around the back of the neck. A narrow girdle may... [continues]
Doublets
The doublet must be close fitting, with a high, narrow waist and internal quilting. Necklines are low and square to oval. The undershirt should be gathered into a band just above the neckline of the doublet. Those old doublets with the deep V-shaped slits to the waist are just no longer fashionable!
Sleeves should be close fitting with tight, buttoned cuffs. For maximum effect they should be puffed out at the shoulder and sometimes at the elbow as well. Alternatively, you should consider going for the 'slashed' look, with narrow cuts along the sleeve so that the shirt or waistcoat can be pulled out in brightly coloured puffs? Of course, another idea is to have a bright lining sewn inside the sleeve, and have that puffed out through the slashes instead.
Another good idea is to wear two sleeves (in contrasting colours, naturally). You can then leave the main sleeve hanging loose from the elbow, thus revealing the undersleeve beneath.
A vexed question in modern fashion concerns whether the ties attaching the doublet to the hose should be on the outside, or concealed on the inside. Opinion differs greatly on this, but personally I feel that decoratively tied bows and half-bows should be employed on the outside, as this looks far more decorative than the converse. You can even go as far as to have the ties tipped with shiny metal tags.
Jerkins
Again, this must be close fitting with a high waist. The skirts should be longer than those on the doublet. It should be lined, not padded.
Unlike doublets, it is quite acceptable for jerkins to be slit in a wide V to the waist, and they should not be laced across. The jerkin should form a round or square collar around the back of the neck. A narrow girdle may... [continues]
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