Oceanography Study Guide Exam 2

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  • Topic: Tide, Physical oceanography, Tsunami
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OCEANOGRAPHY REVIEW TEST 2

OCE 1001 Chapter 8 (Sections 8.0-8.4) Quiz Questions
1. What are the primary factors that determine wave height? a. Wind speed, length of time wind blows in one direction, and fetch 2. If you have two deep-water waves with periods of 5 and 10 seconds, what can you say about their speeds? (See figure below) b. The longer period wave will have greater speed

3. Where would it be most likely that you would find internal waves in the ocean? c. At the pycnocline
4. What is the difference between longitudinal waves and transverse waves? (Ch. 8, Section “How do waves move?” 5. Describe circular orbital motion.
d. The water itself doesn’t travel the whole distance, but the waveform does. As the wave travels, the water passes the energy along by moving in a circle called circular orbital motion. 6. How can you calculate wave speed?

e. Wave Speed (S) = Wavelength (L) / Period (T)
7. What are shallow-water waves?
f. Waves in which depth (d) is less than 1/20 of the wavelength. (L/20) 8. What are transitional waves?
g. Waves that have some characteristics of shallow-water waves and some of deep-water waves 9. Describe how wind-generated waves develop.
h. As wind blows over the surface, it creates pressure and stress. Energy imparted by the wind increases the height, length, and speed of the wave. When wave speed equals wind speed, neither wave length or wave height can change. 10. What is constructive interference?

i. A form of wave interference in which two waves come together in phase, to produce a greater displacement from the still-water line than that produced by either of the waves alone OCE 1001 Chapter 8 (Sections 8.5-8.7) Quiz Questions

1. Why do tsunami waves always behave as shallow water waves? a. Their wavelengths are long enough that anywhere in the ocean the water depth is less than L/20 2. What causes tsunamis?

b. Earthquakes, Submarine landslides, Large meteor impacts, Volcanic eruptions 3. Why does wave height increase in shallow water?
c. Wave orbital motion is constricted by the sea bottom 4. What is wave reflection?
d. The bouncing back of wave energy caused by waves striking a hard barrier 5. What is wave refraction?
e. The part of the wave in shallow water is slowed down, causing the wave to bend and align itself nearly parallel to the shore 6. How are standing waves formed?
f. When waves are reflected at right angles to a barrier. They are the sum of 2 waves with the same wavelength moving in opposite directions, resulting in no net movement. 7. How does the tsunami warning system in the Pacific Ocean work? g. The system uses seismic waves to forecast a destructive tsunami. DART and utilizes seafloor sensors that are capable of picking up the small yet distinctive pressure pulse from a Tsunami passing above. 8. What are the 3 types of breakers and how are they generated? h. Spilling Breakers: result of a gently sloped ocean bottom and produces breakers with low overall energy. i. Plunging Breakers: have a curling crest that moves over and air pocket, particles in the crest literally outrun the wave. j. Surging Breakers: created when the ocean bottom has an abrupt slope, the wave energy is compressed into a shorter distance and the wave will surge forward. OCE 1001 Chapter 9 Quiz Questions

1. If the Moon had an iron core, what would happen to lunar tides? a. The tides would become larger because the Moon is more massive 2. The lunar tidal bulge has a period of 12 hours and 25 minutes, but the solar tidal bulge period is 12 hours. Why the difference? b. The Moon moves around Earth in its orbit

3. If you are in a boat in an estuary, when will tidal currents going out to sea be strongest? c. Halfway between high tide and low tide
4. Why are spring...
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